i’ve been having so much fun surfing.  just connecting with the ocean and feeling the flow.  i miss it a lot… and i’ve been having so much fun foiling.  feeling like a bird gliding above the water in and out of waves.  i miss it a lot…i got hurt on January 2nd.  my foot was like this 2 days after that.  i didn’t realize how bad it was until i saw it in a photo.  now it’s 8 days later and i still can’t walk on it.  i miss surfing and foiling so much.  and when i’m back in the water, i’m going to appreciate it even more than ever.  but for now, more movies, more friends, and more relax time. i can’t complain…

 thank you again Nao-san for making me very hungry here in Hawaii!   but at least i’m not as cold as Matsuo-san.  haha…  nice photos!   i don’t understand why people can’t take care of their cars.   this is some major bird poop! finally the DNLR Police are cracking down on illegal fishermen.  it is totally illegal to lay a net like this and catch all this aholehole.   that is not only illegal, that is so sad.  i hope the guys go to jail.  but due to the lack of laws that protect our resources,  they will probably only get at $100 fine.   that’s pretty sad too…and even more sad is this 13 year old tourist kid that died scuba diving off Hawaii Kai.  it was his first time scuba diving and his dive instructor lost track of him.  everybody else except this boy surfaced and was later found lifeless in 60′ water.   there is no excuse for a 13 year old kid to be in the open ocean like that unattended.  poor kid, and poor family…

Love sunsets, love the ocean, and love Hawaii…

Good morning 6:45am.

North shore 3-5′ and clean.

Ala Moana knee high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and little bumpy.

Light trade winds at 5mph.

Sunny and very warm.

Going to the movies.

Have a wonderful day!