Love sunsets, love the ocean, and love Hawaii…

Good morning 6:45am.

North shore 3-5′ and clean.

Ala Moana knee high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and little bumpy.

Light trade winds at 5mph.

Sunny and very warm.

Going to the movies.

Have a wonderful day!

 if i didn’t get hurt, one of my options was to go to Taiwan to join Matsu and Kimura-san.  so being the nice guy Matsu is, he had to send me what i was missing out.  and omg, i’m missing out… and my favorite soup every morning.  i love it!   and of course us bananas monkeying around.  haha… sorry i couldn’t be with you guys.  i’ll join you guys next time for sure!!!  have fun and get some waves for me!   and i’m missing Mori-san’s BBQ too!!  ahhhh…  i’m getting sad… had some special made chicken curry last night for dinner to cheer me up.  super good!  for the past 3 days i stayed home pretty much all day.  something brand new for me.  so today, i limped out of my house and went for a joy ride.  and it was so joyful to be outside!  i can’t walk, but i can drive manual!  i’m not even sure when the next time i can walk again normally.  the pain is coming from deep inside my foot.  all day and all night in pain.  nothing will hurt me after i get over this!

 thank you Ozaki-san for the treats from Osaka!  i have lots of time to drink and eat!!!   and and was happy to learn about your business “Marukame.”   had a great time with your twin sister Hirano-san and Taki-san.   hope to surf with you guys again soon!   had a great time surfing this last days at Rockpiles when i was injured.  never got to stand up, but still got some awesome views… locals surfing here every single day. and locals surfing super good every single day. good to see Tommy out there too.  even he saw the Japanese guy out in the ocean struggling to get in.   so when he caught his last wave in, he said “Kirby, keep your eye on that guy.”  wow, thanks Tommy.  i wish you would have gotten him.   haha. found this cd in my closet i bought in Japan over 20 years ago.  Kalapana singing all the Southern All Stars classics… i use to listen to this cd every single day when i use to travel in Japan.my favorite song was Miss Brand New Day!   everyday is a Brand New Day!