Glassy days all week long…

Good morning 6:40am.

North shore new swell.  3-5′ at perfect.

Ala Moana waist high and perfect.

Diamond Head shoulder high and perfect.

Light winds so glassy morning conditions.  Onshore in the afternoon.

Sunny and very warm.

Going cruising.

Have a wonderful day!

thank you Masaru-san for the snacks!   good for my vacation food!

i had to get out my house today so took a drive to the ocean.  when i pulled up to Diamond Head, i regretted seeing this because i really wanted to surf!

 i was imagining myself foiling all those swells.  only dreaming for now but i’ll be back soon.

everybody asked me if i got hurt from foiling.  no, i got hurt from surfing.  i still remember paddling out to V-land that morning looking at the sharp nose on my shortboard.  i was thinking how sharp and dangerous it was.  then 15 minutes after that thought, some kook threw his board and i dodged it.  the sharp nose missed my head by inches and hit my leg.  now that i’m injured, i’m looking at the positives and negatives?  the positives are i’m not dead.  i can somewhat walk.  it could have been worst.  and now i’m on vacation.   negatives?  i don’t think negative so none there.  i was supposed to be on a trip this week to either Japan, Taiwan, or the Philippines.   but it wasn’t meant to be this time.  this happened for a reason, a reason i don’t know.  maybe my airplane would have crashed?  maybe i could have gotten hurt on a secluded island?  who knows.  all i know is i’ll be back very soon… in the meantime, i’m going to go with the flow.  no alarm clock, no responsibilities, and no work.  i’m kind of liking this lifestyle.  haha.  thank you Maki-san and Carter for keeping me from becoming insane.  haha…

want to thank Kawai-san for the beautiful box of sweets!

i think i’m gaining weight big time. haha. so delicous…

want to thank Michi-san for sending me the Hawaiian Airlines flight magazine. Hana Hou!

so happy to see my Nephews still the talk of the town. the boys are in almost every magazine you could think of.

the article was about Coach Rainos Hayes. a very dedicated man how loves to pass on his coaching knowledge to the youth. and it’s proving to be very successful!

from Groms to Greatness…

if it wasn’t for saran wrap, i wouldn’t be able to go into the water and work. of course the doctor doesn’t recommend it, but this is pretty much the only way to do it. in this case, i used Japanese saran wrap because it’s not as wide as the American one.

first i vaseline the hole in my leg, put on bandages, then saran wrap it carefully. omg, look how swollen my foot is!!! omg!

then the magical multi-purpose duck tape. this thing works wonders…

i did this successfully for 3 days in a row. it helped with keeping the water out, but it made the pain 5x more because the blood couldn’t flow. my foot could’t breathe and was almost unbearable!!! but like i said, this was the only way. and no, this isn’t for everybody. people call me crazy, people call me stupid, but i’m neither. it’s called getting the job done. and this wasn’t the first time i did it…