peak summer in japan so peak crowds at the pool. unbelievable.

OMG, japan is so small! i’ve been surfing with Nakamoto-san for the past few years in hawaii. i told him that he should go to eat ramen at Marutaya when he surfs in wakayama. so i get my seat, look to the left on the table next to us, and see Nakamoto-san! OMG! freaky! anyway, i wanted to say hi to his wonderful surf team. super stoked to meet you all!

i thought my chickens stopped laying eggs because when i got home, there were no eggs. come to find out, they found a new nest!

yeah, my fresh eggs again! can’t wait to eat um!

on the first day, i rode my short board. there were a few waves that i got in late and missed a good barrel. next day, i rode a longer board. no problem as i got into every barrel i paddled for. everybody else was on their small boards too and usually it’s ok. but this swell, no way! here is Glenn Minami getting a backdoor wave on his short board. after this, he paddled in to get his longer board. good call.

do you believe in mermaids? i sure do. i came in from surfing yesterday and seen the cutest mermaid on the beach waiting for me. i take her hand, we go back into the ocean and swim with the dolphins. we had lunch by eating a few lobsters and octopus, then she brought me back to the beach and we said our goodbyes. gosh, it was love at first sight!

Nature is so cool!
Good morning 6am.
South swell high surf advisory continues.
Solid 2-4′ at Ala Moana and perfect.
Bigger at Diamond Head.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Super sunny and very warm.
Surfing all day.
Have a wonderful day!

had a great surf with a wonderful couple today. awesome big waves and long rides. so stoked to see the smiles after each ride. gosh, i love my job!

wanted to wish my friend Reid a speedy recovery from his injury. when you get hurt, it’s one thing. when your board gets hurt, it’s another. and when both happen, it’s shocking! hope to see you back in the water soon Reid.

two 14 year old florida kids are still missing at sea. they took out their boat and never came back. the boat was found capsized, but the kids were nowhere to be seen. i hope they find them soon.

i’ve never seen a surf report for the south shore 10-15′ before. three days of 10-15′ solid surf! unbelievable.

the ocean is the best place for me. the more i go into it, the more i love it. absolutely no stress. my personal power spot.

yesterday was absolutely the best big rights i’ve ever surfed. i surfed it 2x timing the tide and wind. couldn’t have timed it any better. surfed with a few friends exchanging barrels after barrels. here is Jun Jo taking off on a nice one!

then the evening session was even better. i planned to surf for 30 minutes but ended up staying out for over 3 hours. it just kept on getting better and better. i’d have to say it was my best session in my whole life on the south shore of oahu. pulling into thick stand up barrels and getting spit out was a dream. i got more barrels in the past 2 days than i got the entire 2014. i still can’t believe it.

on the way in, i picked up Micah at bowls and gave him a ride in. he told me “uncle, these past 2 days have been unreal. i’m so satisfied.”

then for the 2nd night in a row when i was washing the boat, the fireworks went off again! why? usually it’s only on fridays, but it went off on saturday and sunday. i think they did it for us surfers for scoring the best south swell in 30 years. thank you Hawaiian Hilton Hotel.

as the sun was setting, i was waiting on the outside with Jason Shibata. i told him, “brah, this is like indonesia!” he said “yeah, just like indonesia but without traveling to the other side of the world and spending $5,000.” we all claimed the waves were breaking just as good as HT’s and had our own private $30,000 boat trip session. we were totally laughing taking turns getting perfect barrel after barrel. we were yelling “HT’s, HT’s” before someone would go. it was a session none of us will never ever forget. thanks Jason, Gen, Cole, and Kaylen for the awesome experience. this is what surfing is all about!