OMG!

omg, i was super surfed out after the morning session so i came home and took a nap. the winds came onshore too the waves got junk around lunch time. i woke up from my nap at 3pm, then felt the cool trade winds coming into my window. i knew the waves were going to get good so i jumped into the truck, then boat, and went out to big rights. OMG! it was going off! off shore and nobody out. everybody went in because it was junky earlier so we had it all to ourselves. super good friends came out soon after and we exchanged epic barrels and barrels. light off shore winds and perfect shape barrels. it was the best big rights session of my lifetime and i’ve been surfing out there for 30 years. it was unbelievable!

yesterdays action at bowls was incredible too. back to the front row watching my friends catching awesome waves. take off by Troy.

every single wave was pretty much barreling. all you had to do was make the bottom turn and you will get a barrel for sure. that easy.

this was one of the clean ones. super glassy and super smooth. the perfect bottom turn.

coming in the ala wai channel is so dangerous. even when it’s calm, it’s dangerous. but when the waves are big, it’s super dangerous. you better know what the heck you’re doing. have to time the sets, have to play the currents, and have to be alert. not captains alert, but surfers alert. if you’re not alert, this will happen to your dream yacht. i see this all the time.

i drove over to bowls to see the damage for myself. so depressing watching a big sailboat like this smash the reef and leak oil and gas into the ocean and sand.

if i had to take this out of the water, i would get a big crane and lift it out from the beach. it’s going to cost about $80,000 so i hope the owner has insurance.

this is so sad.

Clean up starts today.
Good morning 6am.
High Surf Advisory for South Shores.
Ala Moana still solid 5′ and good.
Diamond Head bigger.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Super sunny and warm.
Surfing all day.
See you in the ocean.