got out to big rights this morning. totally empty! big waves for big men i guess? more huge barrels all morning long. no wind so glassy conditions, so many sets, and so many happy surfers. coming home 2 days earlier was the best decision i’ve ever made in my surfing career. i would have been super bummed if i missed this mega swell. and this evening was even better! omg, it was like a dream!

i still can’t’ believe how this summer has been! scored all summer, then went flat for a week, but it’s ok because i scored in japan, and now, more score! for me, this has to be the most powerful swell of the past 10 years. not the biggest, but definitely the strongest. so many broken boards and i haven’t gotten pounded this much since north shore. i checked the waves this morning and when i seen this wave almost break over the red buoy, i left my house.

the Transpac is in full swing so people from all over the world raced to get here to hawaii. so cool!

i seen the most craziest thing ever this morning. i seen a $100 million mega yacht coming in the channel. everything looked normal, then all of a sudden, i seen the yacht make a full turn in the channel!!! omg, i was freaking! a 100′ yacht trying to turn around in a 100′ channel with waves breaking? if a set came when the boat was sideways like this, it would have been the biggest and most expensive disaster in the ala wai history. i sill don’t know what the heck the captain was thinking????

he regained control and cruised on in. i was trying to yell up to the 4th floor captains tower “what were you thinking???”

then i turn my head to the left and see this? omg!!!! what the heck is going on???? anyway, the high surf warning continues. expect huge surf till tuesday. if you’re experienced, go get barreled. if you’re not, stay out of the freaking ocean!!!

the best of the best summer in the history of surfing in hawaii. glad i didn’t miss a thing! more photos coming tomorrow.

Ala Moana Big Bowl this morning.
Super Epic! Looks like Pipeline!
Many barrels, many smiles.
Go-Naminori

surfing japan was really fun. just enjoying the typhoon swells in the summer time watching everybody super happy. secret spots to river mouths, just pure beauty. this was Wakayama on my last day before heading to the airport. so beautiful!

bodyboard girls having fun too!

i got home yesterday around 12pm from the airport. was watching the south shore grow and grow. i was in no rush because i knew the swell was getting bigger and the winds will be off shore all day long. so i waited and waited until i seen a huge 6′ set break over the red buoy at bowls. then it was time for me to leave home.

no parking and too tiring to paddle out to the lineup, so i took the easy way out.

i decided to take a little longer surfboard because i knew there was going to be some big barrels. 6’0 Matchi always reliable for the occasion.

i paddled out to big rights. it was 4′ and growing fast. some 6′ sets came in soon and i was getting some nice stand up barrels. it was so powerful today. not the normal south swell, felt more like north shore.

only a few surfers out on a saturday afternoon? where is everybody? surfed with Ross Williams and Glenn Minami. another dream session for sure. had an appointment at 6pm but surfed until 7:30pm. i just couldn’t go in because it was too good!

surfed until the sun went down. the conditions were like indonesia. perfect 6′ stand up barrels, super glassy, and only a few guys out. Ross told me it was way better than indonesia. i thought so too.

had to get back quickly for dinner. back in 3 minutes.

as i was washing the boat, the fireworks show started. it was freaking awesome! a wonderful way to end such a long day.
tomorrow should be even bigger. i’m a super stoked surfer now. it’s amazing how waves can bring me so much happiness. it’s like i’m still in a deep dream. nothing seems real anymore.