there is a pretty magical place near hanauma bay. it’s called Rock Bridge and even thought it is closed to the public, people break the law and go there. in the past few months, 3 people died there by waves washing them off the rocks. and once you’re in the water, you will never be able to get back out. it’s rough, there’s current, and it’s extremely dangerous. two days ago, a 21 year old military man was the third person to die there. it’s not worth a photo for your Facebook. i passed there many times on my boat and it’s actually more dangerous than it looks.

i usually don’t track typhoons if i can’t go to japan and chase them anymore. but because my nephews are there, i’m watching it closely.

another view. isn’t it so beautiful!

check out this mornings surf report. you never see waves on every shore like this. all us surfers are loving every moment of it!

and the conditions couldn’t be any better. super glassy perfect swells all around our island. it is so uncrowded everywhere because there are waves everywhere. i am super stoked to be in hawaii scoring this very rare event!

day 3 for Hashimoto-san. we pulled up to the beach and my local friend came up to me and said “omg, the waves are way bigger than yesterday! too big for me so i went to waikiki.” Hashimoto-san heard that and i think he got nervous. i tried to tell him it was smaller than yesterday but i knew he didn’t believe me. haha. we paddled out anyway and challenged ourselves. “if you don’t go, you won’t know.” then we went to eat at my favorite sandwich restaurant.

the healthiest on the island. it was amazing!

then i was giving Hashimoto-san some ocean knowledge tips with paper and pen. super easy to understand so all we have to do is go apply it tomorrow morning.

then while we were surfing, my friend told me to come to her house and pick mangos. i asked Hashimoto-san if he wanted to go and he was so excited for his first ever hawaiian mango picking experience.

this is the hawaiian culture. just go to your friends house and pick big ripe juicy mangos.

we were both so stoked. Hashimoto-san will chill his mango and eat it with his mother. i cut some up already and am going to make a mango smoothie. so happy to have such great friends here in hawaii!

to me, hawaii mangos are the best in the world. especially when they’re free!

did you know that it cost an average of $94,000 or 11,210,855 yen per year to live in hawaii for a family of 4? and that doesn’t include savings! that’s crazy!

OMG, biggest day today! Solid 5′ and clean!
So happy!
Round 1 finished.
Going Round 2!
Surf your dream!

so stoked to see Hashimoto-san surfing so much better. we had another day of boot camp yesterday and i can see him much more relaxed and confident. relaxed and confident equals good surfing!

i watch every ride from start to finish. so when i see someone on a good one, i always give the fist pump! this was a good one!

you have to be very fit or very good to even make it out past the breakers these past few days. sometimes you can get lucky and duck dive 5 waves, and sometimes it will take 40 waves to get out. either way, it’s nerve racking to see the blue horizon start to move as a mountain of water starts to build and come straight towards you. then to turn around and catch it is the best feeling in the world! awesome surfing Hashimoto-san!

some people think duck diving is the best way to get out. i don’t think so. the best way to get out is to throw your board and dive under the wave. if you do it right, you will pop right out the back with little resistance. just like how Hashimoto-san did on this wave. all morning, my friends kept on asking me “is your friend ok?” i said “of course, we are in training now.” haha.

oh boy, i got some really good waves too! rode the fat bat and flew down the line on every wave i caught.

went to the Moniz house last night. Joshua and Seth packing for their first ever japan typhoon chasing swell. i really wish i could go with them but have too much work here in hawaii. they are heading off to okinawa and i’m sure they will enjoy the crystal blue barrels and mensore spirit.

since it’s their first time chasing typhoons, they really don’t know what to take. i try to give them as much as advise as i can, but i kind of want them to figure things out on their own. i’m sure they will shine once they get in the water.

want to wish Seth a happy 18th birthday! i can’t believe this kid is already an adult. and i can’t believe this down to earth kid is a surfing champion.
good luck boys chasing typhoons. next one i will join you guys for sure. just keep on respecting locals just like you always do. be humble, be kind, be respectful, and be happy. tell all my friends in okinawa i said hello. surf hard and get the job done. ganbatte ne!