[youtube http://youtube.com/w/?v=uGidxI1ZsPw]
Billabong Pro Tahiti 2013 – Top 5 – Day 1
Good morning 6:50am.
Small waves continues.
Knee/waist at Ala Moana.
Bigger at Diamond Head.
Winds East at 15-20mph.
Rain in the morning becoming sunny later.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

wow, the waves came up today! had another great day surfing with everyone! 2 sessions at 4.5 hours! sunburned but happy. i talked to my friend in japan today and told him “wow, hawaii is soooo hot!!!!” he told me “you better not say that to anyone in japan or they will kill you!” haha. but wow, it was so hot today!

last night was such a clear night. no clouds and the most amazing sunset. i’m really coming to find out that i have to live right on the beach someday. if i can see the sunset every evening, i will be the happiest man on this planet.

when i took my daily drive past diamond head this morning, i knew it was going to be an epic surf day for us.

surfed in the morning with Uetani-san. was stoked watching him get so many good long rides at bowls. super energetic hard core surfer!

then went surfing in the afternoon with Inaida-san and Yuki-san. it was only us surfing perfect rights!!! nobody around!!! Go-Yuki-san!

Inaida-san is turning down the face of the wave really good now. the next step is mentawai where i guarantee he will get barreled!

and with these strong off shore winds, surfboards like to hit people in the head. be very careful!!!!

i’ve been longboarding a lot recently since the waves have been small. cross step or hang 5, i love it!

and yes, i keep telling myself every day and every night. “hey Kirby, you have the best life in the world!” amen!

been surfing so much these days. 2 rounds averaging 4-5 hours in the water per day. it’s been really hot but jumping into the cool water feels so good. and the free air conditioned trade winds make it even better. my surfing days will continue for the next 11 days then i’m off on my adventure again. i’m just hoping for a super typhoon and super big barrels. we will just have to wait and see! if not, there is still fireworks and matsuri going on. i better get my kimono out. haha.
the Matsumoto-san family is so cool. always joking, laughing, and having a great time. i couldn’t stop laughing at their black jokes yesterday. just entertainment all day!

i tell every single person i take surfing “please take your time paddling out. it is very far so if you paddle fast, you will get tired by the time you reach the waves.” i know it gets so exciting when you paddle a surfboard for the first time and you just want to go fast. but taking your time is the key to saving your energy for your first wave of your life.

Noe-chan’s first time surfing. she did really great!

Alyssa showing her longboarding skills.

Watanabe-san heading toward Diamond Head. gosh, i love photos like this!!!

another great day in the water with great people! surfing will keep us all together forever!