relax in bali? no way. not with Kinsan waking up super early and being one of the first to get to the beach. we stopped by at a local morning market to pick up breakfast on the way to the beach yesterday.

40 cent breakfast. i ate two in the morning.

Keramas never use to be a surf point when i first came to bali 21 years ago. now it is, and it will always be a world class wave. it’s so weird seeing this building on a beach that had nothing before. surfing is booming in the world so you better keep your secret spot a secret.

japanese spectator.

golden suntanning in front of barreling waves. this is paradise!

this was my lunch. suckling pig for $2/each. i ate two of these for lunch. after eating 4 servings yesterday, i felt like a pig myself.

after i got out of the water, i grabbed my camera and got the shot! check this out!!! freaking amazing sunrise in bali, indonesia!!!

good evening, after an early morning session, a couple of barrels, watching the contest, eating 2 suckling pig meals, taking a nap, getting a massage, and watching the sunset sipping on bintangs, i can finally say i had a wonderful day! paddled out at dark at keramas before the contest started, only one guy was out, it was 2x world champion mick fanning practicing for the contest. the orange/red sky lighted up from the sunrise, the full moon going down the opposite way, it was like a dream. first wave, barrel! i can’t explain how happy i was. showered up, got out my camera, and took some shots. check it out.

Taj Burrow has been surfing really good this year. good barrel rider, and good carver. it’s always fun watching him surf.

Josh Kerr was amazing. this guy is hard to beat at barreling spots like backdoor and keramas. i’m predicting him to go very far in this contest.

Joel Parkinson isn’t 2012 world champion for nothing. this guy was flowing with the ocean and getting all the good barrels. some amazing surfing.

then John John Florence came out and did what he does best. get barreled and do a big air. very successful he’s going far too.

this is the man everybody’s eyes are on. Kelly Slater is the only guy that wins heats before he even paddles out. 11x world champion makes his competition nervous when they find out they have him in a heat. he had a local wild card surfer who had the golden chance to beat Kelly. but that didn’t happen as he didn’t make it out of barrels he usually would have.

Kelly is over 40 years old and teaching all the young boys how to surf. his body is like a 20 year old acrobat. always fun to watch in the water.

another world champion Mick Fanning was surfing good too. in the morning session, i paddled next to him and i could see and feel the fire in this guy. he was so focused it was scary! i did my best to stay out of his way.
well, just got back from an awesome $5 massage, and a couple of bintangs down at the beach with Kimura-san. i’ve only been here a day and i’m glad i came. the waves are pumping and will be for the next 3 days. perfect timing? yes, always!
going to dawn patrol, watch the contest, get a massage, sip on bintangs, and enjoy this wonderful trip!
Bali Bagus!!!

Good waves.
Good sunset.
Good evening.
Beer time!