i love my chickens! fresh eggs every single day! clean living!

wanted to say hello and thank you to Ikeda-san! keep on surfing!
and last, Maki-san always sends me the coolest videos. i’ve been fascinated with the free divers in the philippines for years now. i remember surfing a small island 8 years ago and seen this old man swimming on the outside all alone. i paddled out to see what he was doing and found out he was free diving. i was watching him go down for over 3 minutes and come up with a fish. it was deep, it was blue, and it was amazing. later that day, i went to the village and bought a speargun off one of the kids. it was home made and super simple. i also bought their homemade goggles. i have it at my house and it reminds me of that trip all the time. one day i hope to go diving with these old timers and hope to learn something about the ocean from them. maybe that someday will be soon. anyway, check out this cool video if you haven’t seen it before. amazing!
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MgRpwESWPLM[/youtube]

OMG, Bird Poop!
Good morning 5:50am.
Small surf today.
Ala Moana waist high. 12 surfers at Bowls.
Clean conditions.
Winds trades at 15mph.
Cloudy becoming sunny.
New South swell on Wednesday!
Have a wonderful day!

omg, i surfed for over 6 hours today! my eyes are burnt, my skin is black, and i’m feeling high. i was driving home today and forgot where i was going. just spacing out and day dreaming. i better drink a lot of water because i surely lost a lot of it. had a blast this morning surfing over 4 hours straight with Ogawa-san. super nice guy and good surfer. glad to see him catch so many sets at bowls.

and this afternoon, i took Miyako-san and Rika-chan surfing. so good to see these girls surfing so well and being so comfortable in the ocean. i might be tired, but i’m completely satisfied with another wonderful day. too tired to take the bike for a sunset spin. instead, going to go buy some shoes.

people ask me what i do for exercise? i surf! i went from a 33″ waist last year, to a 32″ waist earlier this year, to a 31″ waist now. i feel like i’m in top shape. thanks to surfing and eating awesome food. then when i travel next week, i’ll gain 2″ back. haha.