good morning, somebody sent me and asked how i have so much energy. gosh, i really don’t know. i don’t drink coffee, i don’t drink red bull. i guess it’s just a natural high i get from surfing, diving, and traveling. it’s in the air and i can’t slow down. i wish i had 48 hours in a day, and i wish i had 4 hands. i want to do everything!!! i have millions of things i have to do written down on a piece of paper i stare at everyday. i look at it, then look at the sun outside and decide my day. usually i choose the sun….

one of the reasons i hang at the beach and surf so much is because i love pushing my nephews. this is the first year their all charging pipe/backdoor and i love it. if they get barreled, i feel like i’m getting barreled too. it’s pretty dam exciting… photo gordinho

i don’t mind waiting and waiting for a wave when i’m surfing. i have no time limit and no place to go when the waves are good. if the waves are up, i’m surfing! so i’d sit out the back sometimes for hours just talking story with the boys. and when that time comes when i get a good wave, it means a lot to me. i’m smiling all the way home like i did yesterday… photo gordinho

i was super stoked to see another japanese surfer in hawaii!! hiroto arai showed up at off the wall yesterday. i was watching him paddle out through off the wall and seen 4 big sets break on his head. lucky he didn’t break his board. i wanted to paddle out and say “Welcome to Hawaii!” but i’ve seen hiroto surf and this kid surfs good! i can’t wait to see him on a big backdoor wave. ganbatte hiroto!!!

last, sorry masato-san. i made a mistake and said this was niigata. my bad. this is actually akita in japan. can you please call me when the waves get that good again? i’d love to surf there!!! mahalos…

Fresh farm eggs from Peterson Farms in Wahiawa.

good evening. wow, 3 awesome days this week at backdoor/pipeline. it’s already better than the whole last year winter season. i walked through the sand path to check the waves and as soon as i got to the beach, i seen a 8′ solid A-frame backdoor/pipe set that peeled like a oil painting. i stood there for 2 seconds in awe, turned around, and ran to my car to grab my board. i was so excited that i tripped and fell in the sand. good thing only 2 people saw. it was funny but i didn’t even have time to laugh. i just wanted to SURF!!!! i jumped in the water and ended up surfing for over 4 hours.
it was packed! lots of the locals were out including pros like joel parkinson, taj burrow, dean morrison, and many others. i was hard to get a wave but i didn’t give up. i waited and waited. if it came, good. if not, there’s always tomorrow. luckily for me, at 11:45, this perfect 6′ solid backdoor set came right to me. i turned around, took off, bottom turned, and got a huge barrel. it’s by far my best barrel of the year so far. i was so happy driving back to town… it was a great day and tomorrow, i’m taking the day off. stay home and watch a DVD.
check out this video i shot in like 30 minutes. i drowned 3 waterproof cameras already and if somebody wants to sponsor me more cameras, i’ll promote them in the best way possible. i can’t afford buying a new waterproof camera every week. i don’t make a penny off my videos and i never wanted to. i just shoot because i love shooting and showing the world the wonderful job i have. when this camera drowns, i’m done… haha…