Started off with another beautiful day!  Clear morning, nice waves, and perfect conditions.  Every single day!

Super happy for this girl.  Watching her life getting better day by day.  As long as you know how to have fun surfing, you’re on the right path…

Splash!

Spent the morning riding behind the girls.  The good thing is I don’t have to yell and scold them that much anymore.  Haha.

Came home for lunch.  Avocado and toast.  This morning at Bowls, Matt was talking about bacon so I was craving bacon when I got home.

Then back out for Round 2.  The Diamond Head locals Cedric and Lance.  I’ve known these guys for 35 years and they still surf as good as they did back then.  These were the guys winning all the amateur contests.  Good to see them healthy and happy.  And also surfing every single day!

The tiny endless summer…

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head head high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

When I see someone on a perfect wave like this, sometimes I yell “DO SOMETHING!!!”   In this case it was Dean and the wave looked absolutely perfect.

It’s been a dream summer for long boarders.

When I pulled up to Diamond Head yesterday, I saw a guy taking off and immediately I knew it was Hayato.  I surfed with him so much that I can tell just by the way he paddles.

So I zoom in and watch the action.  That is Hayato taking off and Nori-san in the back watching.

Off the lip and a complete ride.  So cool to pull up to a surf spot and seeing one of your friends ripping it.