Friday Afternoon Delight…

Good morning 3:20am.
Ala Moana chest high and good. WQS @ Bowls ON!
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

when the surf report says there will be a South Swell coming, the whole island believes.  it was crazy crowded this morning with no South swell in sight…

there were just a couple sets that rolled in all morning.  Hajime-san got one of them!  look how smooth the conditions were!

if you have the right board, you will fly even on a little waist high waves.  “a magic board will change your life…”

i went back out this afternoon and it looked like a postcard.  i was looking at Diamond Head thinking “wow, i can’t believe this is my home.  i better thank my Mom for giving birth to me.”

it’s been 3 long years since i surfed with Kanachan.  the waves were perfect for her and so was her surf style.  this is how everyone should surf if you want to look cool.  knees properly bent, arms out, looking forward, and most important, big smile!  good job Kanachan!

it was super fun to get back into the ocean for a free dive.  while we were diving, we were doing deep water beach cleaning.  it’s something that soothes the mind, and also helps out planet.

if we didn’t take this fishing lead off of the ocean floor, it could have killed some coral and marine life.  anyway, it felt good giving back the very ocean that provides us with life.

the crazy thing is there is much more of this still there on the ocean floor.  i wish fishermen would be a little more responsible and clean up their mess.  i get sad seeing this every time i go to that magical place.

i want to thank Chichan for sending me this photo.  it is of my stepfather Jose Angel.  published back in 1960, this was the very first Surfer Magazine cover shot.  taken at Sunset Beach shot with 16mm stills.  i was only 6 years old when i use to play with my brothers and sister in the sand on the beach waiting for Jose to come in from Waimea Bay, Pipeline, or Sunset Beach.  i think one of the reasons why i’m so connected with the ocean is because i know Jose is still out there somewhere.  his body has never has been found, and i was always ok with that…