good morning. wow, the waves on the north shore dropped so fast. it’s so small out there today. good think i went out yesterday. there’s some little waves in town. there’s a small north/west swell expected on march 31st. good timing for the womens pipeline contest. anyway, going to start packing and jump in the water somewhere. have a nice day….

my eye has been bothering me again so i went to have everything checked out. this time, i went to queen’s hospital where they have all the high tech machines and stuff. it was so weird looking at my eye close up…. here’s the deal. my pteriguim seems to be growng back. i’m taking medicine to try to stop it. if it stops, great. if it doesn’t, not great. surgery again? yeah, the doctor told me that i might have to cut it off again. that would suck…. now what am i going to do for another month out of the water????

that’s when i picked up the traveler magazine. 20 dream escapes? sounds good as long as there isn’t any ocean nearby. safari tour in south africa? and get eaten by a lion? deep forest in the philippines? and get kidnapped? or travel india? eat curry, do yoga, and find my inner soul… now that sounds good….

this was my facial expression when my doctor told me to stay out of the sun. it’s like telling a fish to stay out of the ocean. impossible…. what ever happens, all i can do is think positive and be glad i have an eye to start off with. and another thing i can look forward to is my 1 month vacation because there’s no way i’m staying in hawaii if i can’t go in the ocean. that would cause too much suffering. ahhhhh… i don’t even want to think about it… so i won’t…..

good evening. i went early to the north shore, pulled up to backdoor and had to make a decision. it was 3-5′ and kind of weird. good wave direction, but windy and not too good. i knew that today was probably my last session of the 2008-09 north shore season so i was sitting on the beach wondering what to do. paddle out to backdoor, wait an hour and maybe catch one good one? no, i’m too busy for that. or go to velzyland and catch 40 waves? it took me 1 minute to make my decision and before you know it, i was in my car driving to velzyland. oh my gosh!!! the waves were so good and the lineup was empty. i caught more than 40 waves and got barreled about 8 times. the waves were going off!!! i got out of the water at 9am and was on my way back home. what an awesome way to end off my season. thanks north shore…. but wait, i might go back out there again….

it’s been a while since i trained at the pool. it felt pretty good, except for the stink chlorine smell on my body now… that’s so unhealthy…

i’ve been too dam busy to take photos of the waves recently. this is a half ass photo of laniakea on my way back. chest high and shitty…

i was passing by the new location of Eggs n Things. it was freakin packed at 8am in the morning. i ate there once before and didn’t find anything special, except for the price. 2 eggs, bacon, and rice for $8? wow…. i would be a millionaire if i sold breakfast for that much….

yoga retreat in india? now that sounds good…. namaste!!!

TED’S BAKERY FRIED RICE LOCO MOCO…. OKI… OISHI… BIG AND ONO….