i really like to people watch.  it teaches me a lot about a persons personality so i decided to sit on the beach before i paddled out today and watch.  in the 15 minutes i was on the beach, i must have seen 40 surfers paddle out before the sunrise.  i was watching how people carried their board, how they put on their leash, and how they interacted with others.  just by looking at that, i could tell their surfing level.  try it…

when i got out to Bowls, i couldn’t believe how good it was!  it was perfect!  omg, lucky us…

then i came in and watched the waves and people for another hour.  it was a very interesting morning.

then i went to look at Diamond Head in the afternoon and the waves were super good.  so i grabbed my foil and rode 5 endless waves.  

then sat in my car and watched for another hour.  boats going by, passing showers, rainbows, windy waves, and happy surfers.  today i decided to observe and i learned a lot about people and nature.  might do it again tomorrow…

the first Winter swell came and gone.  when i was out there foiling the super big and powerful waves, i realized how mentally prepared you must be.  equipment is one thing, but the mental game is the key to success.  you can’t show any signs of fear because that will affect the split second decisions that need to be made.  so i decided to stop short boarding for now and focus 100% on exercising and foiling.  i know that 20′ swell is coming soon and i’ve been waiting all year for that.  i can always short board after that…  

preparation is important too.  i’m constantly moving my mast around so the faster i can do it, the better.  this will make it way faster and a lot easier.  

a guy in Hawaii custom makes these screws for the foil.  now i don’t need to take my wrench out in the water because i can turn these easily with my finger.  it’s good to have.

the North shore boys i go towing with are all in their 50’s.  age doesn’t matter because we act like teenagers.  joking, laughing, and playing around all the time.  but when it’s time to drop into a huge wave, the laughter stops and it’s down to serious business…

Point Panics…

Good morning 4am.
North shore head high and good.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Strong trade winds up to 30mph today.
Sun, showers, and huge rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!