a very long time ago, 12 of us Japanese surfers went to Fiji, got on a boat, and went searching for waves.  we found this little island, and right off that island was this angry left.  it would come in from super deep blue water and break on a very sharp shallow reef. there were lots of reef cuts and a lot of broken boards.  i didn’t really like it because it was very unpredictable and very risky.  and to top it off, the nearest hospital was 12 hours away by boat. the only reason i wore a wetsuit is because i didn’t want to get my body scraped all over the reef. by the end of the 7 day trip, my brand new white wetsuit looked like it went to war from hitting the reef a lot. anyway, after everybody saw these photos, the whole surfing world went there. it looks perfect in this photo, but i can assure you it wasn’t. it was sold as a new exotic destination in Fiji. that was the first and last time i went there. we were the first surfers to surf that spot so we got to name it. and we named it “King Kong.”

Bula!

Morning Summer fun…

Good morning 5:10am.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Have a wonderful day!

i’m pretty comfortable about going out in the pitch dark of night.  i do it all the time because it’s the most peaceful time to star gaze.  i know the reefs and know where most things are.  it’s pretty tricky because sometimes the waves break in the middle of the ocean, and sometimes there are some buoys you won’t be able to see.  it’s a little risky, but once you see the millions of stars twinkling in the sky, it’s worth all the risk in the world…

then if you’re really lucky, you will see dolphins jumping right in front of you.  this isn’t guarantee and that’s the best part.

if you go to Diamond Head around 4pm,  you will see a lot of surfers paddling out at the same time.  it’s the after work crew paddling out to relieve all the stress from work.  they are way more aggressive than morning crew because time is the essence.  once the sun goes down, it’s over…